Regional and sustainable food, Argentinian style

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Regional and sustainable food, Argentinian style

November 10, 2011 by goodlifecooking

I just returned from Buenos Aires on a whirlwind 3 day visit. There are many ways to describe Buenos Aires-big, old, busy, classic, but one thing I cannot say is that the food is any more inspired or unique than what I have found in Mendoza. Oh, don’t get me wrong, it is easy to find an empanada, a pizza or a parilla (traditional meat grill) but beyond this it remains a limited and oft repeated assortment. As with any meal, I believe the challenge lies in doing something creative with what is available. Such is the theme of regional, seasonal cooking. Ironically, I still don’t know much about the flavors of where I now live.

Luckily for me, I crossed paths with someone who told me about a place in Buenos Aires called “Casa Felix”(click here for a link to their website). It is the home of the Felix family, Diego the chef and his photographer wife Sanra. They spend much of their time traveling throughout South and North America researching regional cuisine, culinary techniques and indiginous ingredients and flavors. Then they take this information back to Buenos Aires where they create extraordinary 5 course vegetarian and fish meals for guests in their lovely gardens.

Diego spoke with me at some length about his frustrations with Argentinians attitudes and understanding of food and culture. He said it is virtually impossible to attract locals to his dinners because they don’t include meat. He explained that people are so narrow that they won’t even take a chance at a meat free meal. He also expressed disappointment in the culinary locals for their lack of depth and breadth in utilizing regional ingredients and methods. In general, he said, there is little understanding or attention to the concept of a ‘food system’ at all, much less attempts to build a regional and sustainable one.

Meanwhile, Diego was full of knowledge and excitement about the rich traditions and flavors of South America like arrope de tuna– a sweet syrup from a local succulent plant, kind of like a cross between maple syrup and agave nectar, or mote-a dried hominy corn that is soaked in calcium oxide or ashes to remove the outer hull and tenderize the grain. He employed incredible creativity and talent in transforming these ingredients (and many from their own garden) into flavor and texture explosions.

These pictures don’t do justice to the beauty of the presentations or certainly not to the flavors, or the ambiance, but they give a glimpse into the possibilities when one is passionate about local food and willing to use their imagination!